Aadnevik returns to London Fashion Week with a bodacious new look that veers off the beaten path in favour of one lined with saloons and tumbleweed. Selecting an outfit can feel like a rodeo, but there’s no way these outfits won’t put a target on your back and a bullseye in the stunned onlook of passersby. Crushing extravagance is the new face in town, making any humdrum street a showdown - it’s high noon and the town ain’t big enough for the both of ‘em.
The cowboy hats aren’t an understatement, so where else could one even start? This rough and tumble piece of ranchwear is found on every fit, almost always in velvet black, lined with a crown of badges that belie the Sheriff’s numbered days. Each hat is accompanied by a bolo-style clasp featuring bovines or brooches that hark back to the South’s wild frontier era. Styling a cowboy hat is hard work - some might liken it to leading a horse to water - but the hay-swept runway exhibition shows that it’s all in the ensemble. The clasps serve to draw the eye away from the hat and exemplify the neckline and frame the outfit below, whether it’s a pink corset that hangs off the shoulders or a gown fit for more than mere hospitality. A silver-black palette is the perfect compliment for strong makeup and a determined gleam in the eye of anyone bold enough to make it part of their central fit - confidence necessary to stare down any no-good varmints that stand in one’s way.
With outfits like these, anyone attired is sure to become an ace-in-the-hole. Aadnevik has undertaken quite the insurmountable task by framing a cowboy hat to a dress, though they’re not one to be outdone by even the South itself. These fits cling to the waistline and billow out below the knee, leaving a trail of elegance and thin fabric perfect for wind-swept city strutting or forays into an up-class belle ball. The hat’s large silhouette is strikingly complimented by cuts that don’t blow up the form or take away from the space it needs to stand as a focal point of the entire look, a feat easier said than done by styling an item many would see as eccentric. Aadnevik’s philosophy seems to be that style begins from a centrepiece and works its way outward - the give and take of these designs is as such that even the length to which these dresses are cut compliment the wide-brimmed headpiece.
Finding the midpoint of refinement and chic when styling such an item is difficult - these outfits may appear suitable for late-night galas or high-class events judging by silhouette at a distance; upon closer inspection, each piece highlights the waist so as to provide a historic double take. Leather belts and corsets evoke Southern ball outfits, though thin fabrics below the waistline bring this Wild West style up to modern speed, not being too heavy or having impractical proportions. Aadnevik’s sparse use of layers, favouring colour-blocking and texture to play fabric feel over each model’s skin, shows a consideration of how antiquated dress retains style when cut with modern fabrics and contemporary form, though each application of layers and lace is so genius that it leaves one wondering about other avenues of midriff styling.
Of the short dresses, classic gothic supplements are used to fully rock the 19th century style; large black flowers and frilled skirts match the width of frame the cowboy hat requires to feel at home in this here neck of the woods. Where pattern is used, cuts feature a corset style lacing to give fabric the reins over palette. Negative floral designs are used on a few adventurous pieces that show Aadnevik hasn’t even begun running out of ideas to keep an outfit attractive and understated when the need arises. Points of power are created by drawing the eye to key parts of the body, never quite overwhelming the look in any given area or overall.
The longer dresses make full use of the fabric texture to accentuate their elegance and necessity. Close-cropped garments here use a silky-yet-matte thread which highlights each wearer's frame tastefully; luxury is the name of the game, and Aadnevik hits it dead-centre - sometimes leaving a leg exposed so that skin tone can play a part in giving the outfit an air of celebrity. Where the chest is exposed, accents such as floral embellishment, corset lacing, and fringes keep the eye trained exactly where it needs to be - on a silhouette that’s nothing less than a prize. Sequins and bejewelled garments reminiscent of paparazzi glitz make some pieces showstoppers indeed - their bright palette and stark cut are sure to make any wearer the talk of the town.
Gowns are undeniably the most attention-grabbing additions to this set, where the hat becomes an asset more than a staple, since it doubles as a veil. These pieces have Southern noir written all over them in white lace, intricately woven as such that the message couldn’t be missed. Floral accents on each of the garments place a perfect cap on an outfit that just needs a beating sun and the buzz of cicadas to fully finish. All things considered, these gowns triumph over the challenge of styling the hat by maintaining a divide in the midsection and arranging lace so that other fabrics are brought into the fold. There is no pretense - Aadnevik fully immerses the wearer in Southern sophistication here… just be sure not to wear them to someone else’s wedding.
Aadnevik’s storied journey of blending whimsy and elegance takes another bold step with these fashion pieces - rarely is such a prolific designer able to have such fun while tackling the challenge of thoughtful arrangement. Where risks are taken, they pay off - though it would have been interesting to see a deeper exploration of how layering can style a centrepiece. Still, any do-si-do would be decidedly elevated to decadence with these Country-inspired outfits.
Image Credit: Milly Wee
