As LFW celebrated its 40th anniversary this September, there was one collective discourse underpinning the creative endeavours of the designers showing; one that drew parallels between nostalgia and how it informs the now.
Skepta’s Mains show brought the back to school drama. Showcasing a collection which was inspired by his daughter’s love for Matilda, we saw the musician and designer send blazers, fuzzy vests, boldly printed denim suits, and a fur-lined collaboration with Kickers down the runway. Ever referencing his artistic multi-hyphenate, another highlight from the show came when it opened with an unreleased musical collaboration between the designer and Ye. A statement which felt immediately gripping to his audience, one that felt like a lesson in paying homage for creative progression.Â
A day later, Sinead Gorey took us to prom! Presenting a conceptual show built around her ideas of an outsider to the high school in-crowd, one who could give a toss about prom and would likely only shows up for the afters, Gorey sent girls down the runway in pastel corsets, 90 stripes and silhouettes, donning their Converse and their Sony Walkmans in hand. The soirée, which was set in an aptly decorated sports hall, transported Gorey’s audience back to the tumulus of adolescence. As is her signature, Gorey once again showcased her proven prowess with color and shapes, using meticulous tones and silhouettes to evoke emotions in her audience that bring to the surface a vivid shared nostalgia.
On Sunday, Labrum hosted a sports day at the Arsenal stadium. The presentation saw founder Foday Dumbaya pay homage to Britain’s iconic ‘football fashion’ subculture, whilst injecting themes of the African diaspora’s contributions to football in a bold celebratory statement. Fresh from designing the club’s official away kit, Dumbaya took over the gunner’s home, introducing a collection that seamlessly merged the rich textured colors and patterns of traditional wear from across the African continent with high performance sportswear silhouettes and football stadium attire for both the players and the fans. With tech jackets, tailored suits and socks tucked into Adidas football boot, Labrum’s cultural impact was felt this season not only through the shows grandiose setting, but by the models and talent present on the runway. Ghetts performed a poem as part of the presentation, Declan Rice, Amanda Reifer and Michael Daapah walked the show, all resulting in the atmosphere in the stadium being one of cultural appreciation. A considered subversion of the space in order to showcase artistic excellence.
On Monday, Mowalola closed out the week with a provocative talent presentation entitled ‘Dirty Pop’. Showcasing a 90s inspired slut-core collection full of latex and furs, Mowalola took center stage as she performed her unreleased music on the catwalk, in amongst performances from Brennan Jones, Deto Black and Chi. As one of the front-running shows of the season, the set design, the sheer volume of models, an appearance from regular collaborator Irina Shayk, and the provocative sex-fuelled punk aesthetic that underpinned the whole spectacle, it’s safe to say that Mowalola took it upon herself to end the season with a bang!
