London Fashion Week, orchestrated by the British Fashion council, stands as a pinnacle in the fashion worlds of events, renowned for its rich legacy of innovative style, boundless creativity and extraordinary designs. Designers such as Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney are some of the names birthed by the London Fashion week as they ushered in waves of innovation and creativity on to the catwalks. (Vogue UK, 2019)
One of the most memorable events that took place at London Fashion Week include the iconic Alexander McQueens S/S 1999 collection where he seamlessly blended technology and fashion offering a glimpse into a futuristic perspective on garment construction. Robots, in a mesmerising display, were seen spray-painting a strapless dress worn by model Shalom Harlow as she rotated on a wooden platform. (Vogue, 2020)
London Fashion week, a biannual spectacle, provides both established and upcoming designers the opportunity to platform their latest collections to an anticipating audience. In the current year, models graced the runway showcasing designs characterised by elegance, power, opulence and a hint of minimalism. Notable mentions include J E Cai, Burberry, JW Anderson, Ahluwalia and Tolu Coker, among others.
However, some designers opted for a completely contrasting approach, embracing elaborate layerings, bold prints and theatrical make up. Designers such as Mowalola, Masha Popova, KWK by Kay Kwok dared to push boundaries and create fashion that truly captivated the eye.
Temple by Feben
Feben introduced their empowering collection placing the concept of body positivity at the forefront of their designs. The mantra “My body is a temple” derived from the Bible (1 Corinthians 6:19), served as the driving inspiration behind Feben’s S/S 2024 runway collection. This quote imparts the values of respect and self-love towards one’s body.
Within this collection, one can discern the diverse assortment of designs that artfully echo the contours of the female form. From v-shaped skirts that mirror the female anatomy, to cleverly crafted warped outlines creating the illusion of protective layers around the body. She incorporated an interesting mix of sheer fabric, print, ruffles, beads and a rich colour palette featuring chutney brown, spicy mustard, crimson, lilac and jet black (Pantone, 2023) were noticeable elements to her collections.
Feben fearlessly pushed boundaries by integrating glimpses of nudity into her pieces, symbolising vulnerability, exposure and the embodiment of confidence. The remarkable transformation from Feben’s past discomfort with her own body to the creation of pieces that unabashedly reveal the human frame resonates as powerful testament to strength, self-ownership and empowerment.
The runway commenced with the model delicately caressing her body, her back towards the audience. She embraced herself with a hug before sensually tracing the silhouette of her physique. In a sudden, dramatic turn, she strode confidently along the catwalk, wearing a double slit maxi dress with a crimson sheer illusion that outlined the front of her body, as the dress opened either side leading up towards her thighs, the dress seemed to float around her feet, evoking the image of a sea goddess. Natures sounds filled the space as she was later followed by untamed beads as they gracefully danced along the catwalk.
The dynamic movement of beads incorporated into fringe skirt and dress designs combined with the captivating sound they produced, amplified a sense of power and presence. This natural symphony harmonised with the celebration of the human body in its natural form.
A printed hand tightly gripped the neck of another model, with smudges of spicy mustard adorning the dresses torso and thighs. The delicate balance of white symbolised purity, while the smudges represented as its departure from that purity, perhaps signifying a daring transition into a more audacious era.
Feben made a memorable entrance at this fashion week, capturing attention for all the right reasons.
Crash by Mowalola
In a realm of fashion, there are moments that transcend clothing and becoming immersive experiences. Mowalola’s S/S 2024 runway show ‘Crash’, Inspired by David Cronenberg’s 1996 erotic thriller film that epitomised as an immersive journey – it ventured into territories of seduction, pain, damage, intimacy, provocation and rage, leaving an indelible mark on the fashion world.
Mowalola, a Nigerian born designer, boldly sent models down the runway, their face bearing the marks of bruise and bloody faces, their faces provocatively bare, and their bodies adorned with messages that pushed boundaries. The collection boldly drew from the film themes, incorporating elements of leather, dirty denim, graphics, knee high belts, thigh high boots, and dropped waists.
In a daring twist that paid homage to Alexander Mcqueens audacious’ Bumster’ design from his A/W collection in 1995-96, Mowalola’s ‘Crash’ collection fearlessly embraced controversy. Amidst a trend of floral motifs prevalent in many designs this year, Mowalola’s take on the floral reveal was nothing short of provocative and audacious. A model graced the runway in extremely low-cut yellow pants, revealing her innermost femininity. Legs, stomachs and barely covered chests, further added to the theme of seduction and daring allure.
Hosted at The Beam, located in an industrial estate, Mowolala’s runway show boasted a star-studded audience with only the exclusive in attendance including the most controversial, Kanye ‘Ye’ West accompanied by Bianca Censori. The audience witnessed a mesmerising display as models entered the stage, conjoined to one another in a captivating racer-esque formation. Their presence showcased an array of flag-designed skirts and bags that boldly communicated a message. Among provocative graphic’s that displayed a provocative message, one stood out in irony reading “4 slim people” while another drew inspiration from Umbro’s a black and red colour scheme.
In the backdrop of Donald Trump's infamous ‘China’ replayed over the soundtrack, controversy soon unfurled on the runway. Flags representing the UK, Japan, Saudi-Arabia, and China made their bold presence felt. This display was notable in light of the evolving relationships between China and Saudi Arabia, while the UK and Japan stood united, symbolising their enduring historical partnership.
This choice of flags hinted at deeper diplomatic discussion, possibly hinting at the ongoing talks between Nigeria and their relationships with Japan and China, particularly within the context of the African Development Summits. These selections transcended fashion and entered the realm of politics, reflecting the intricate web of international relations. (Nigeria / Japan relations, Africa’s relations with Russia & The West, 2023)
However, the Saudi Arabian skirt design, initially a part of the collection, stirred controversy and was subsequently removed. An uproar ensued as some accused Mowalola of blasphemy for featuring a sacred flag bearing the Islamic Shahada, which reads, “there is no God but God, Mohammed is the prophet of God”. Outraged onlookers took to social media to express their displeasure, calling for removal of the design.
In response to the controversy, Mowalola publicly apologised for the oversight and swiftly had the product removed from the collection, according to CNN (CNN, 2023)
In ‘Crash’, Mowalola dared to defy convention and take her audience of journey through uncharted fashion territory. It was more than just clothing; it was an immersive experience that challenged societal norms and pushed the boundaries of what fashion could be.
Trends of London Fashion Week
Floral
Sheer fabrics
Fringes and ruffles
Knee and thigh high boots
Dropped waistlines
London Fashion Week remains a dynamic hub of innovation and empowerment. This year designers like Feben and Mowalola boldly pushed boundaries championing body positivity and sparking controversy as they challenged societal norms. Both brands have made a lasting impact on the fashion world, igniting creativity and elevating fashion to the realm of art.
Thank you for exploring London Fashion Week with Deeds Magazine, stay tuned for more exciting updates
