Reclaiming the Runway: Tia Adeola's Bold Return to NYFW

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Photographer: alanflicks

Tia Adeola’s 10th anniversary show was nothing short of a traditional celebration, complete with a money spray symbolizing prosperity and community. Returning to the NYFW calendar for the first time since February 2023, Adeola stunned on Sunday evening with a refreshed perspective of her unapologetically feminine tributes to her roots.

Tucked in a cozy corner of Brooklyn, an angelic opening cascade of feathers and furs graced the label’s return. The audience softy hummed along to Hezikiah Walker’s, “Grateful” as the familiar ancestral hymn filled the air. An appreciative homage to past collections, chic reimagined versions of the brand’s distinctive ruffle sets and airy teal chiffon dresses exuded a dreamy nostalgia.

After reflecting on the past decade of her eponymous brand, the gates opened to a new era of Tia Adeola. Leaving the soft and sexily subdued details behind, bright carnival hues emerged down the runway head-turning glittering bodycon dresses and intricate coral beaded sets. A sunny yellow and rainbow ruffles transported the crowd straight to Lagos in the heat of the summer.

Flirty flamenco embellishments breathed life into men’s silk sets and loose slack silhouettes, nodding to Adeola’s long-standing admiration for Spanish design. The party was non-stop from head to toe, from strappy side lacing to sharp proportions accented by bright feathered fans.

Photographer: alanflicks

A long simple sheath was the backdrop for three bold words “STOP COPYING,” expressing the designer’s unapologetic protest not only for her own influential designs, but for all Black designers who are setting the tone, yet being imitated by fast fashion competitors.

Two identical duo-tone polo sets explored the dichotomy of being Nigeria born and London raised, enmeshing preppy details with rich green and traditional prints. The Nigerian flag was woven throughout the collection, elevating the foundational national pride that inspired the brand ten years ago.

As the roar of the party winded down, the stunning soft clatter of hundreds of cowrie shells embroidered onto a flowing bodice floated down the runway. Through it all back home to the shores of Lagos, where artisans crafted the very first looks of the blooming brand.

“The collection is more than a milestone, it’s a bridge between the past and future. It's a love letter to my roots, a celebration of identity, and a promise of what’s to come,” the designer shared in the show notes.

Glimpses of an edgier future at the brand appeared as a dress woven entirely from braiding hair with a cone bra took center stage and models strutted with braids wrapped around their wrists as key accessories. A slight departure from the dainty feminine aesthetic, silver metal accents and denim were juxtaposed with pearl belts and feather leg warmers.

Iconic viral moments from the past decade were celebrated with a debut of designs boasting the brand logo. Flowing diagonal text evoked the elegance of drapery, bridging the illusion of dimension to a skin-tight form. With this bold return, Tia Adeola is reclaiming her throne —the party is just getting started.

Photographer: alanflicks