African designers have been gaining global recognition over the past decade, winning or being nominated for several prestigious industry awards and prizes, despite the unique challenges they face as they try to scale & build a sustainable and profitable business
Designers are not being prepared enough to run profitable, long-lasting businesses, henceforth the transition from designer to business owner is not easy. The work that’s required behind the scenes is very different for emerging designers in Africa and they deserve a lot of credibility because of how they manage to create what takes space in world stages while bringing forth our rich history of diverse cultures and forgotten heritages.
I had the opportunity to connect with Leon von Solms, a designer who showcased at the South African Fashion Week SS24. The event was held at the Mall of Africa, and was a night filled with amazing people who are seasoned supporters of fashion and creativity.
Hi Leon, trust you are well and healthy - Please kindly introduce yourself to our readers by telling us what you do.
I am a South African artist, who is currently based in Woodstock, Cape Town and I consider myself an artist first before a designer. All through my childhood, I was leaning towards the arts and creativity, I could draw well and loved music and studied the piano and sang in all the school choirs I went to during my schooling years and it was very joyful to now be able to use that knowledge in the garments I create - As well as fusing both arts and craft with fashion.
I find that to be very interesting, you’re an artist before a designer - How long have you been working in fashion? [Kindly take us through the journey to where you are today]
Since early in my youth I always needed to change my sense of dressing compared to everyone around me. I was interested in everything around me and pushing boundaries.
I did not look at Fashion as a career. I came from a very conservative upbringing and fashion was not seen as a career.
After my second year, I decided to change my course and concentrate on textile design. Art is a very abstract world and my mind needed a purpose.
With textile design, I can use my artistic abilities but it's for a specific purpose.
Yes indeed, you did bring those worlds together and that was depicted in the recent show by incorporating a body painting of a marvelous model who made that painting live with the SS24 collection.
Keen to find out what is your design process?
I always start my design process with one idea or inspiration. This new range shown at SAFW was titled Flowers but still within my DNA, as well as design language - I think my garments will always be recognized by the choice of fabrics.
Critical business aspects you’ve learnt or weren’t aware of before breaking into the industry?
So my first chapter in fashion was not commercially successful. It was purely an expression of a rebellious youth. I think that one thing I learned is if you decide to get involved in fashion very early in your life, get some business experience or a business partner or team up with a company that can give you business advice.
Who is your style icon? Who are you following ATM for style inspiration?
I don't follow any specific designer or trend. Everything inspires me and everyone. I think everyone has got something unique to give and share.
Are there any myths that you would love to debunk for us, especially in an African context?
Nope, there’s nothing at all currently that comes to mind.
What trends are you forecasting for 2024?
I think the world needs a lot of happiness and that's why I think flowers on fabric are such a big trend. For my range this Saturday I painted ten different African flowers on ten dresses.
My whole vibe for the collection is very 70s.
Which African designers are you currently buying into and why?
I have always been a person who is interested in everything around me, especially stuff that is pushing boundaries when it comes to a sense of dressing, like underground indie collectives that are producing avant-garde & challenging the norms of clothing.
With the knowledge you have - What could you have potentially done differently to achieve success?
Certainly, with the knowledge that I have acquired, I understand that everything happens for a reason and if one is optimistic with the outlook, whatever that happens allows it to be of value in terms of learning.
What makes a successful design?
I think what makes a successful design is all about the feeling, for example when a client is wearing your product and it makes them feel like a precious treasure - As a designer you have done your job.
How would you define your brand to someone who has never heard of it?
My work involves an array of layered textures, colours, and unorthodox crafting that yearns to extend wearability and longevity.
Can you choose one defining moment in life/career that matters to you?
I had a successful career in make-up and in 2007 relocated to Johannesburg. I loved the vibrancy of Joburg and the amazing exposure to Africa and its people. The clothing bug was still in my veins and I started up again in fashion in Joburg in 2009.
This time I was more mature and wiser to get things going in a more structured way. But it's been a long road. It takes time if you start a business with no funding. It's a constant hustle. I remember I was looking at getting labels but all the label printing companies were doing minimums and it was very pricey. So I got a small screen printing screen with my logo and did it myself and the exercise was lesser in cost
Does technology impact your craft and do you have any design software you prefer using?
What makes my pieces special is that I hand-paint my fabric myself. I have looked at technology to interpret my fabric but the machine will never achieve how the ink sinks into the fabric when I paint it with my natural hand gesture - However, I still think technology is a wonderful tool to use for many of the processes in fashion.
Lastly, any knowledge to share with young aspiring fashion designers in Africa?
So my advice to anyone would be, to know precisely what you want to do in fashion and concentrate on that and get to know all you can of that specific market. The fashion industry is huge. Many old big labels started out doing one thing. Some big names today started only making bags etc.
