‘The Traditional Runway is Out’: Paris Fashion Week Men’s January 2025

Authored by

Paris Fashion Week Men’s January 2025 showcased that the traditional runway is quickly becoming an outdated format, as designers leant into elaborate productions, immersive storytelling, and experimental performances to create worlds around their new collections. Houses both historic and emerging reimagined the fashion show, pushing the boundaries of what a runway ‘should be’ while making bold artistic statements. Deeds was front row capturing all the action at the most anticipated shows, so here’s our overview of the standout moments this season.

COU COU BEBE took an unconventional approach by turning the runway into an MMA ring, where fighters clashed in patchwork garments that echoed rebellious streetwear aesthetics. Drawing heavily on emo subculture, the collection featured oversized silhouettes, graphic text, and a gritty deconstructed look. The performance blurred the lines between fashion and art, symbolizing chaos and individuality, with garments that featured distressed fabrics and bold typography. All in all, the show was an immersive statement on rebellion and resilience.

Bianca Saunders presented a deeply poetic performance that merged fashion with performance art. Models, draped in carefully crafted silhouettes, carried blocks attached to mesh fabrics throughout the show space, as their performative movements symbolised the things we carry throughout life. Creating an atmosphere fashioned to feel like we were gathered to experience more than just clothes, the vast color palette and deliberate movements of the models reflected the emotional spectrum of the things we put on, turning the runway into a space for introspection and resonance. It was a poignant, visceral exploration of personal struggle and growth, centred around fashion. 

AMIRI created an intimate, cinematic experience set in a reimagined 1970s speakeasy, transporting the audience into a world of retro glamour. The collection, a fusion of traditional fashions and sophistication, featured leather jackets, structured bags, and glittering cardigans, blending ruggedness with dazzling flair. With a show that paid homage to the audacious individuality of the '70s, and a sense of nostalgia and modern innovation, Mike Amiri once again raised the bar of his creations and left a lasting impression.

YENESAI GLOBAL, the new kids on the block, delivered a captivating, otherworldly first presentation, combining futuristic design with performance art. Set in a grand, almost ceremonial atmosphere, dancers embodied the garments, adding a layer of movement and storytelling. Known for their leatherwork, YENESAI’s sculptural pieces blended rigid construction with fluidity, creating an immersive experience that challenged traditional fashion presentations.

KIDSUPER continued their tradition of pushing boundaries, collaborating with artist  Kenzo Minami to create a literal indoor tornado, which provided the backdrop for their signature colourful patchwork collections. The chaotic storm symbolized the unpredictable nature of creativity, and the collection, featuring collaborations with streetwear juggernauts BAPE, fused streetwear with high fashion. As we’ve come to expect with KIDSUPER, the show was a celebration of artistic expression and the joy of fashion’s transformative power.

ZIGGY CHEN presented a quiet, contemplative collection inspired by utilitarian and vintage aesthetics. Set in an abandoned garage, the show focused on garments that felt lived-in and historically rooted, evoking a sense of timelessness. The collection rejected fast fashion’s excess, embracing craftsmanship and longevity, with an emphasis on resourcefulness and the beauty of well-worn garments.

Willy Chavarria, in collaboration with Adidas, celebrated Chicano culture with oversized silhouettes and bold graphic motifs at his first ever showing in Paris. The show highlighted the intersection of high fashion and streetwear, with designs reflecting both tradition and modernity. The collection paid homage to Chicano identity, making a powerful statement about culture, pride, and individuality while drawing on Adidas’s roots in streetwear.

SANKUANZ presented a spiritually charged performance inspired by Tibetan Chöd meditation, combining ancient traditions with contemporary design. The collection blended oversized outerwear, tailored jackets, and ritualistic garments, with a focus on impermanence and selflessness. The collaboration with the Young Boy Dancing Group infused the show with meditative movement, creating an immersive experience that subverted tha fashion runway and left us all speechless. 

Jacquemus returned to Paris with a couture-infused collection set in an architecturally significant Parisian home. The collection reimagined timeless femininity with structured corseted dresses and flowing gowns, drawing on classical sculpture while infusing modern cuts. The use of architectural space added layers of meaning, reinforcing the tension between the building’s hard lines and the fluidity of the garments, further elevating Jacquemus’s mastery of blending simplicity with grandeur.

PROTOTYPES X ALPHA INDUSTRIES took an innovative approach by repurposing past collections to create new silhouettes, emphasizing sustainability and adaptability. Set in a forest, the collection symbolised survival, resilience, and the enduring value of garments. By focusing on archived pieces and reimagining them for the future, the collaboration made a powerful statement about the future of fashion and the importance of human resourcefulness.

Louis Vuitton x NIGO made a bold statement with a collection that blended streetwear with luxury craftsmanship. NIGO’s vibrant designs incorporated oversized jackets, logo-heavy pieces, and playful details, celebrating individuality and personal expression. The collaboration between the streetwear pioneer and the luxury brand highlighted the cultural significance of streetwear while pushing the boundaries of high fashion into the future. One thing’s for sure, Pharell knows how to put on a show. 

Paris Fashion Week Men’s January 2025 was a testament to how fashion is evolving, with designers moving beyond traditional presentations and embracing new forms of storytelling and expression. From the chaos of COU COU BEBE’s MMA ring to Jacquemus’s refined elegance, the season proved that fashion is not just about clothes—it’s about creating experiences that resonate far beyond the runway.